Monday, December 31, 2018

Ships & Sightseeing

Viking Ships, a Fortress, Palace & Lots of Snow 

Gokstad Viking Ship.

Two weeks ago I had the pleasure of hosting some family from Finland for a weekend trip in Oslo. I had such a great time getting to play tour guide and show them the city. One of the places we went to was the University of Oslo's (UiO) Viking Ship museum in Bygdøy.

Gokstad Viking Ship.

In addition to three authentic viking ships on display, there are lots of different artifacts, and a brief film showing what life was like for the vikings. The Gokstad ship on display dates back to the year 900 AD and was the final resting place of an important man. Despite being plundered, the ship still had some tools, a board game, small boats, a sleigh, and the remains of different animals offerings.

Oseberg Viking Ship.

The Oseberg ship was built around 820 AD and used in 834 AD to bury two powerful women. The grave had several sleighs, intricately carved posts, and sacrificed animals. The museum also hosts the Tune ship from 900 AD, and other grave goods and riches.  Despite being a rather small museum, it is a nice to visit if you are interested in learning about vikings, plus a visit to UiO's Historical Museum is also included in the price of admission.

The Oslo Opera House (Operahuset).

Just across from Oslo Sentralstasjon (Oslo S or Central Station), the world famous Operahuset sits along the fjord's shore. Completed in 2007, the opera house is iconic for it's exterior sloping roofs, which visitors can climb up and sit outside on. Even during the wintertime visitors can scale the building to take in the views, but it can be quite slippery so be careful if you choose to do so. 

Shirt art project outside of SALT.

Across from the opera house is the large Nordic sauna known as SALT. The main sauna seats approximately 100 people, and hosts different events and evening activities. Outside of SALT there is currently an art installation with t-shirts from Norwegians and Finns hanging in the "Arctic Pyramid" which is a triangular tunnel made from traditional fish racks. 

View of the fortress.

A short walk along the harbor from SALT and past the Norwegian Armed Forces Museum (Forsvarsmuseet), one can glimpse Akershus Fortress rising in the distance.

View of the fortress' South Wing.

Akershus Festning or Akershus Fortress dates back to the medieval ages with the first construction of the fortress beginning around 1290 AD. By the early 1300s, the fortress faced it's first defense against invading Swedish forces.

Cannons in front of Munk's Tower.

Over the years, the fortress has undergone a lot of changes, from creating new entrances and military reinforcements, to remodeling and modernizing the castle's interior. The fortress has also served many purposes ranging from being the king's residency, to a prison, military post, and a royal mausoleum and house for the crown jewels; thereby cementing its role as an important cultural site. 

View of the fortress chapel and inside courtyard.

The fortress grounds are open till 21:00 everyday and free to walk around. There is also a free museum displaying artifacts and detailing the history of the grounds. A fixture to Oslo harbor and one of the few places where you can find free public toilets (which can be important when you're out and about), I've been to the fortress quite a lot since I've lived in Oslo. However, it was the first time I actually got to go inside the castle courtyard. Normally, the doors are sealed with a guard patrolling outside.  On this particular day, the gates were open for a church service taking place in the chapel, offering us the chance to take a peak inside.

The North Wing from the inner courtyard.

From the courtyard one can glimpse the chapel built in the 1500s, and the South, Chancery, and North Wings. The South Wing host's the original castle entrance from the 1300s which can still be seen in what is known as the "dark passage." Today, the South Wing serves as the reception room for the castle, meanwhile the North Wing holds the castle's cellar, and several elaborate halls including the Lady's Hall and Royal Hall. Historically, the Chancery Wing held the castle's lavatories, whereas beginning in 1648, the North Wing has been the castle's main entrance. 

Portion of the Royal Bastion.

Today, visitors can marvel at and take photos of actual servicemen and women from the king's royal guard who patrol the ramparts and castle gate. The armed forces continue to have a presence on and around the fortress in the nearby military base, school, and museums.

Snow covered Norwegian Resistance Museum.

During WWII, the fortress was occupied by the Nazis and the grounds were used to execute Norwegian's from the resistance. Since 1949, there is a memorial near the Resistance Museum for those who lost their lives there. Beginning in 1652, the fortress also became a prison used to house and rent out thieves and criminals to do hard labor around the city. Finally in 1950, the prison closed after several centuries of housing criminals.

View of the fortress' frozen pond.

Following a fire which destroyed Oslo, the current city foundations emerged around the fortress in 1624. Not only is Akershus Festning central to Oslo, but being steeped in over 700 years of history, it serves as an important cultural and historical site for all of Norway. 

Rådhus (Oslo City Hall).

Just down the street from the fortress lies Rådhus, or Oslo's City Hall. Visiting a city hall may seem a little unconventional, but I highly recommend heading inside for a look around. Finished in 1950, the city hall is enormous and boasts many large murals, paintings, sculptures, and a hall displaying the gifts given to the city of Oslo over the years. In addition to making sure things are running smoothly in Oslo, city hall also hosts the presentation of the Nobel Peace prize each December. 

Christmas tree and CO2 display at Universitetsplassen. 

Across from national theatre lies the University of Oslo's Universitetplassen, or University Square surrounded by three of UiO's law faculty buildings. Each December, a giant Christmas tree is lit on the square. This year the 1 Tonn of CO2 earth balloon was raised on the square during Oslo's Peace Week earlier this December, to correspond with the awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize. Furthermore, Oslo is the 2019 European Green Capital!

Slottet (the Royal Palace).

A short trek up from Universitetplassen lies Slottet or Det kongelige slott (the royal palace). Built in the 1800s, the palace overlooks Karl Johans gate which is one of the main streets in Oslo. During summer, visitors can marvel in the gardens or take a tour of the palace. Beginning in autumn, the royal family moves back into the palace for the winter months, as signaled by the red flag that flies high above the palace when the king is home. One can still walk up to the palace, watch the changing of the guards, and explore slottsparken (the palace park) which remains open in the northern and eastern sides of the palace year-round.

View of Karl Johans gate (street) from Slottet.

During December Oslo boasts many different Christmas markets. The largest one is the Julemarked (Christmas market) located at Spikersuppa park just down the hill adjacent to Karl Johans gate. The market offers lots of food, Norwegian products, and also rides and an ice skating rink. The market at Spikersuppa is pretty commercialized and very crowded during the weekends, but is nice to stop for a snack. Throughout the city, there are many other Christmas markets that remain up all month, in addition to weekly artisan markets; providing many opportunities to soak up the holiday cheer.

Carolers at the Prindsen hagen julemarked.

On the last day my family was visiting, we did a walking tour around the city going to all of the places mentioned above, minus the viking ship museum which we visited on the day before. We then ended our day at the Prindsen artisan Julemarked, and wrapped up by having waffles with traditional brown cheese and jam while we listened to carolers. It was an absolutely lovely day in Oslo.

Christmas tree in front of city hall. 

I love getting to play tour guide, so if anyone is in Oslo and looking for someone to show them around or recommend places to check out, please don't hesitate to ask!

Happy holidays! 

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